Owen Dunton Ellerkamp is a self-taught jewelry designer and fabricator and the founder of his eponymous jewelry line, Dunton Ellerkamp. Based in Brooklyn, New York, Owen first began his career working with treasured cultural artifacts and design galleries, where his fascination with the ancient craft of lost wax casting initially began. After completing a wax carving course, Owen evolved his aptitude as a jeweler before establishing his namesake collection in 2022. Beloved for his grounded, non-gendered approach to traditional jewelry design, Owen's pieces embrace the natural texture and quality of craftsmanship. After meeting Owen at his welcoming Brooklyn-based studio earlier this fall, we spoke to him about his background and how he developed the signature aesthetic of Dunton Ellerkamp.
What was your path to arriving in NYC?
I moved to Brooklyn in 2018 after graduating from Oberlin College. One of my closest friends was moving, so I thought I’d join him. I moved here to work in art and had my first job at an esoteric auction house. It was such a New York job producing innumerable stories – for better or worse.
When do you recall your personal interest in jewelry first beginning?
My family is not so into jewelry. My parents only wore wedding bands and not much else. I’ve always enjoyed small things, and I’d say my interest in jewelry grew more out of miniature things.
You are a self-taught jewelry designer and fabricator – how did you go about learning this artform? Were there any barriers to entry or challenges you encountered at the start?
My interest in producing jewelry came from learning about lost wax casting. I had a job that introduced me to metal artisans in France who employed the lost wax method, and I was fascinated. This interest led me to the sole jewelry course I’ve taken – a 30-hour wax carving class. From there, I continued to carve wax in my free time with my limited knowledge and produced shapes that spoke to me. One of the very first rings I ever made was the Owen Ring — now a signature shape. With jewelry, there are so many skillsets – setting, polishing, soldering, enameling, on and on. I was limited at the start, but have since learned more and started to work with others who contribute their skillset to complete a piece.
Can you speak to why lost wax casting is your preferred method?
I prefer to work in wax. It is forgiving and agile. The shapes are easier to discern as well. I like wax carving for these reasons. The transformation of the piece from wax to metal continues to astound me – every time feels like a surprise. It’s hard to predict exactly how it will feel in the hand once it is in metal.
What prompts a new piece to come to fruition in your collection?
At the moment, most of the newer pieces are building upon pre-existing shapes and motifs in the collection. I’ve been imagining new iterations of the Owen shape in earring and pendant form. I'm drawn to stones for their color more than anything else. I love going to the gem dealers and sifting through stones and determining how to include them into the collection. Rings seem to come quickest to me. I have the hardest time thinking of new earring designs.
Dunton Ellerkamp jewelry has an honest, raw and refined aesthetic – can you share how you arrived at this?
The feel and look come very naturally to me. I grew up on a field/piece of conservation land in New Hampshire. Every morning, I was lucky enough to watch the sun rise over a mountain in the backyard. I think those moments of watching light spread across the landscape have informed my inclinations more than anything else. I spent a few years working in the art/design space in New York, which informed my preferences in a large way.
Who or what inspires you today?
I love looking at paintings – a few painters whose work really inspires me are Ellen Siebers, McKenzie West, and John Joseph Mitchell. I love their use of color. I’m inspired by self-taught artists/designers who follow their own rules and feel less constrained by traditional conceptions of their medium. I’ve always been so inspired by Japanese woodworking. I’m also constantly inspired by other small business owners who are out here creating something unique and meaningful and beautiful in the face of the world and the powers that be.
Is there a rhythm (or any rituals) in your design process?
Most new ideas come to me when I’m either walking or running – or whenever I’m not looking at a screen. I like walking and taking in my surroundings to see what comes to mind. I would like to make more time for creative exploration and design development. I think winter is a good time for that.
Can you share what we might look forward to next from Dunton Ellerkamp?
I’d like to try something new soon – new shapes, new materials. I am interested in engraving and enamel and incorporating those into the collection. We’ve really been focused on gold, and I think we will focus on creating one-of-a-kind pieces in gold. I am forever interested in incorporating found materials from the natural world (like our shell pendants) into the jewelry, and I hope to incorporate new materials soon.
When not in the studio, where can we find you? (Any favorite spots?)
I spend most of my time outside of the studio in Bed-Stuy and Astoria, Queens. I also like to escape New York whenever the chance arises. One of my longtime favorites is Bunny, Bed-Stuy. More recently, I’ve been seeing a lot of plays on and off-Broadway and have really enjoyed dipping my toes into theater.